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Nintendo Switch Handheld Console

2017-2021 Models

Choose Your Model:

Cosmetic Condition

Functionality

Are controllers included?

Charger Included?

Nintendo Switch is the hybrid console Nintendo launched in 2017, with a revised board in 2019 and an OLED variant in 2021. It plays docked on a TV or handheld on its own screen, which is why it became the go-to system for people who wanted one console to cover both. Original units carry model number HAC-001, the 2019 revision is HAD-001, and Nintendo Switch Lite and Nintendo Switch OLED round out the family. Because the game library carries across every model, a working Switch in any generation still has real resale demand. Pick your exact model and condition above for a live cash offer, or see how the process works before you commit, and check what other consoles are worth if you have more than one to sell.

Confirm you have the Nintendo Switch

The fastest way to identify your unit is on the console itself. Go to System Settings → System → Serial Number to see the serial, or flip the console over: the model number is printed on the sticker on the underside of the kickstand (original and V2), or on the back panel (Lite and OLED). That printed code is the most reliable way to tell these apart, since the outer shell looks similar across generations.

HAC-001 (2017 Original)

  • No manufacture-date badge near the model number sticker
  • Battery life rated lower than later revisions
  • Kickstand is a single small flap on the back

HAD-001 (2019 V2)

  • Same body as the original but with a small "HAD" prefix on the sticker
  • Longer rated battery life than HAC-001
  • Uses the more efficient Tegra X1 revision internally

Switch Lite

  • Fixed, non-detachable controls, no Joy-Con rails
  • Smaller body, no TV dock capability
  • Handheld only, cannot output to a television

Switch OLED

  • Wider kickstand that spans the back of the console
  • Larger screen bezel and a wired LAN port on the dock
  • Model sticker printed on the back panel, not under a kickstand flap

Prefer a visual check? A full-width kickstand and a noticeably larger screen mean OLED. Fixed thumbsticks with no way to remove the controllers mean Lite. If it undocks into two separate Joy-Con and has a narrow kickstand, it is either the original or the V2, and only the sticker underneath will tell you which.

Core hardware configurations

Processor

  • Nvidia Tegra X1 system-on-chip across the lineup
  • V2, Lite, and OLED use the later "Mariko" revision of the chip, built for lower power draw
  • Original HAC-001 units run the first-generation Tegra X1

Storage

  • 32GB internal storage on the original, V2, and Lite
  • 64GB internal storage on the OLED model
  • All models accept a microSD card for expansion

Controllers

  • Detachable Joy-Con on the original, V2, and OLED
  • Fixed, built-in controls on the Lite, with no detach function
  • Whether Joy-Con are included with your unit changes the offer, so flag that above

Display & audio

Original and V2 use a 6.2-inch LCD touchscreen at 720p handheld resolution, upscaled to 1080p when docked to a TV.

Switch Lite has a 5.5-inch LCD touchscreen, fixed at 720p, with no dock or TV output.

Switch OLED steps up to a 7-inch OLED panel, still 720p in handheld mode, with deeper contrast than the LCD models.

Audio is stereo speakers on every model, with the OLED's speakers noticeably fuller than the original and V2.

Ports & connectivity

Every Switch shares the same core connections, with the OLED dock adding one extra wired option.

Wired
  • USB-C charging and data port on the console
  • HDMI output from the dock (original, V2, OLED)
  • Wired LAN port on the OLED dock only
Wireless
  • Bluetooth for Joy-Con and Pro Controller pairing
  • Wi-Fi for online play, eShop downloads, and updates

Handheld or docked Detachable Joy-Con microSD expansion USB-C charging Tegra X1 chip Nintendo eShop

Battery, build & more

Battery. The V2, Lite, and OLED all run noticeably longer on a charge than the original HAC-001, a direct result of the more efficient chip revision. None of the batteries are swappable by the user.

Finishes. Standard Gray and Neon Red/Blue Joy-Con colors are the most common. Special-edition consoles and Joy-Con pairs exist for various game tie-ins and can affect condition grading if the finish is scratched or faded.

Known issues. Joy-Con drift, where the analog stick registers movement on its own, is a well-documented issue across the original and V2 controllers. A console with drifting Joy-Con can still be sold; note it during the condition step.

Market positioning. With Nintendo's newer console now on shelves, demand for a working Switch has shifted toward budget and secondary buyers rather than first-time adopters, but the library and low entry cost keep steady demand alive.

Frequently asked questions

01 How do I find the model number and exact configuration?
Go to System Settings → System → Serial Number on the console, or check the sticker under the kickstand on the original and V2, or on the back panel on Lite and OLED. The sticker shows the model code (HAC-001, HAD-001, or the Lite/OLED equivalent) along with the serial number, which is what confirms your exact configuration for the offer above.
02 How do I tell it apart from the Switch OLED?
Look at the kickstand and the screen size first. The OLED has a wide kickstand that spans nearly the full back of the console, while the original and V2 use a small flap kickstand. The OLED screen is also visibly larger at 7 inches versus 6.2 inches on the earlier models. If the controls are fixed and non-detachable, it is a Switch Lite instead, which has no dock capability at all.
03 Can I sell it with damage, drifting Joy-Con, or a dead battery?
Yes, a Switch with a cracked screen, Joy-Con drift, a battery that no longer holds a charge, or a unit that won't power on at all can still be sold. Select the condition that matches during the picker above and the quote adjusts accordingly. Before shipping, you do need to deregister the console from your Nintendo Account and remove any linked payment information, since a linked account can prevent the buyer from reactivating the system.
04 What raises the trade-in value the most?
Including the original dock, both Joy-Con, and the charging cable raises the offer, since a complete kit sells faster than a bare console. A screen and shell free of deep scratches or cracks matters more than minor wear on the dock. Joy-Con without drift, and a battery that still holds a reasonable charge, also push the grade up. Selling the correct model, especially confirming OLED versus original, keeps the quote accurate from the start.
05 How do I erase it and remove my account, and how do I get paid?
First, go to System Settings → Users, select your Nintendo Account, and remove it from the console. Then go to System Settings → System → Formatting Options → Initialize Console, which wipes all saved data and settings back to factory defaults. If you have a Nintendo Switch Online membership tied to the console, deregister the console from your account online beforehand so it doesn't stay locked to your profile. Once that's done, ship the console to us using the free, insured shipping label we provide. After our team tests it against the condition you selected, payment goes out by PayPal, Venmo, Zelle, CashApp, or check. Full steps for other devices are on our data erasure protocols page.